In the midst of exploring downtown Cordoba, Argentina, we stumbled upon quite a unique spot. Literally in an alley-way behind El Iglesia Catedral del Cordoba (the most iconic cathedral in Cordoba), and the main Plaza del San Martin, is a small run-down structure that turns out to have extreme significance.
We later learned why this site is so important. From 1976-1983, Argentina's government was run by military dictatorship; the leaders at the time called it, "Proceso de Reorganizacion Nacional" or, "Process of National Reorganization." Now, it is often referred to as the "Dirty War."
A bit of a history lesson for you:
General Juan Peron had originally served as President of Argentina from 1946-1955. During this time, he was married to famous political figure Eva Peron (Evita - sound familiar?). Eva Peron died during his office in 1953, and he eventually re-married to Isabel Martinez de Peron. Several decades passed with various changes in the government, but Peron was democratically re-elected in 1973. He died in 1974, and his wife, Isabel took over the presidency. Not being as experienced politically, the government weakened under Martinez de Peron, and was seized by the military in 1976 (led by Lieutenant Jorge Rafael Videla).
Throughout the regime, extreme secretive measures were taken to eliminate any opposition of military rule within Argentina's population, mostly through what was called "forced disappearances." Over thousands of people with any attribute of deterrence toward the dictatorship were arrested or kidnapped and taken to "detention centers," where they were tortured and often killed. Many of the bodies were hidden or destroyed without record, so the military could deny that any such terror was of their own doing.
Comision y Archivo Provincial De La Memoria, the site we wandered upon accidentally is a former Detention Center, labeled CCD (Clandestine Detention Center).
Thank fully for Argentina, the dictatorship ended in 1983. Thousands of relatives of the disappeared filed reports of their missing family members, and were finally heard. President Raul Alfonsin took office, and human rights organizations have since worked alongside the government to ensure that a similar situation does not happen again.
In 2006, the government of Cordoba approved a law called "Act of Remembrance." A part of this act includes preserving the Clandestine Detention Center in downtown Cordoba, and developing it into a memorial, or site of memory. The act created jobs for people to research and find testimonials of those who were involved in the terrorism or had family members who had disappeared. The project is continuous, as other locations are being restored into memory sites. The archives of the Disappeared are continuously growing to this day, as more and more claims of people who went missing are made.
The Site of Memory, as it is called, is small yet heart-wrenching to see in person. Despite the descriptions of each room or item and people's memories all being written in spanish, the site makes an important piece of Argentina's history very real. Not only is it extremely humbling as an American citizen who has never experienced such extreme violence and terror from government rule, but it also provides a better understanding of the Argentinian people and country as a whole.
We later learned why this site is so important. From 1976-1983, Argentina's government was run by military dictatorship; the leaders at the time called it, "Proceso de Reorganizacion Nacional" or, "Process of National Reorganization." Now, it is often referred to as the "Dirty War."
A bit of a history lesson for you:
General Juan Peron had originally served as President of Argentina from 1946-1955. During this time, he was married to famous political figure Eva Peron (Evita - sound familiar?). Eva Peron died during his office in 1953, and he eventually re-married to Isabel Martinez de Peron. Several decades passed with various changes in the government, but Peron was democratically re-elected in 1973. He died in 1974, and his wife, Isabel took over the presidency. Not being as experienced politically, the government weakened under Martinez de Peron, and was seized by the military in 1976 (led by Lieutenant Jorge Rafael Videla).
Throughout the regime, extreme secretive measures were taken to eliminate any opposition of military rule within Argentina's population, mostly through what was called "forced disappearances." Over thousands of people with any attribute of deterrence toward the dictatorship were arrested or kidnapped and taken to "detention centers," where they were tortured and often killed. Many of the bodies were hidden or destroyed without record, so the military could deny that any such terror was of their own doing.
Comision y Archivo Provincial De La Memoria, the site we wandered upon accidentally is a former Detention Center, labeled CCD (Clandestine Detention Center).
Thank fully for Argentina, the dictatorship ended in 1983. Thousands of relatives of the disappeared filed reports of their missing family members, and were finally heard. President Raul Alfonsin took office, and human rights organizations have since worked alongside the government to ensure that a similar situation does not happen again.
In 2006, the government of Cordoba approved a law called "Act of Remembrance." A part of this act includes preserving the Clandestine Detention Center in downtown Cordoba, and developing it into a memorial, or site of memory. The act created jobs for people to research and find testimonials of those who were involved in the terrorism or had family members who had disappeared. The project is continuous, as other locations are being restored into memory sites. The archives of the Disappeared are continuously growing to this day, as more and more claims of people who went missing are made.
The Site of Memory, as it is called, is small yet heart-wrenching to see in person. Despite the descriptions of each room or item and people's memories all being written in spanish, the site makes an important piece of Argentina's history very real. Not only is it extremely humbling as an American citizen who has never experienced such extreme violence and terror from government rule, but it also provides a better understanding of the Argentinian people and country as a whole.
Repression for standing up for what one believes is certainly not a new thing, and I am learning it to be quite universal across time and locality. It is humbling to realize that many Argentinians understand it better than I ever will, even though I would never have initially pinned Argentina as a country with such a kind of experience. A local building contact for the venues our show plays in Cordoba and Buenos Aires (he works as a contact between our company and the local promoters and buildings) has become a friend to many of us, and has an immediate family member who was "disappeared" back in the early 1980's. It is unbelievable to hear about his story, and experience a place where such terrible events occurred.
A main tagline of the DDC Site of Memory states, "No Olvidar para No Repetir," which translates to "Never forget, in order to never repeat." Increasing awareness, and discovering and preserving the reality of the events during the last dictatorship are helping Argentinians to recognize the terror, reconcile, and move forward in human justice. If you ever find yourself in Cordoba, Argentina, I highly suggest finding El Comision y Archivo Provincial De La Memoria, and experiencing it yourself.
Yep, I'm a nerd. ;-)
